Well, the Devil does get around, doesn’t he? In common with the rest of the country, Derbyshire and the Peak District are home to many of the Devil’s exploits that have attached themselves to a variety of different places, myths, legends and folklore beliefs.
What we should consider, when looking at the Devil in folklore, is that this is not really the biblical Devil that we are dealing with here. This is not the mighty and powerful, albeit fallen, archangel, Lucifer, the Light-Bringer. Instead, the Devil in folklore, though undoubtedly frightening to behold, is often a figure of ridicule; easily overcome by guile and quick wittedness. He is commonly portrayed as being covered in black fur, hoofed, horned and with a tail. This is nothing like the fallen archangel of the bible, instead, it bears far more similarity to the gods, spirits and diverse supernatural figures of indigenous European pagan beliefs, of the Celts, Vikings and Anglo Saxons.
Before Christianity, the Devil figure would have been either a giant, a troll, a pagan spirit or other fairy-like entity, as mentioned above. The reason for this change lies in the conversion of the British populace from older, pagan beliefs to Christianity, during the Anglo Saxon era. In 596CE, Pope Gregory sent missionaries to Britain to convert the pagan Anglo Saxons. Rather than the usual Catholic ‘conversion by the sword’, Gregory’s message to the missionaries was to use existing pagan practices and shrines, and to adapt local customs and culture. This meant that the pagan festivals of Easter, Yule (Christmas) and Beltane (Halloween), to name the most famous, were all Christianised. Churches were built on the sites of pagan shrines and any number of pagan ‘bad guys’ were all changed to become the Devil. With that in mind, let us look at what this Devil - whoever he may be - has been up to across Derbyshire and the Peak District.
The Crooked Spire. Phil Sangwell.
THE CROOKED SPIRE OF CHESTERFIELD No disrespect to the good people of Chesterfield, but it does have many connections with the Devil. This is, of course, mainly in relation to the town’s famous crooked spire. Atop the Parish Church of St Mary and All Saints, Chesterfield, is the unmistakable crooked spire; a twisted and deformed pinnacle. Its image is well-known across the country, probably being the most famous of the eight twisted spires across England.
According to author Richard Bradley, in his ‘The A-Z of Curious Derbyshire’, there are three competing legends as to how the Devil twisted Chesterfield’s crooked spire:
Whilst having his hooves shod, in nearby Bolsover - a common problem for hooved supernatural entities - the inept blacksmith drove a nail in too far, causing the Devil immense pain. The Devil leapt up into the sky, with an horrific shriek and, in his agony, flew across land and clipped St Mary’s Church spire in passing, warping it into the shape we see today.
One day, the Devil is resting on top of the weathervane of St Mary’s Church. In the church below, a holy ceremony is taking place and the incense begins to gather and make its way out through the spire. The holy aroma gets right up the Devil’s nose, causing him to erupt in a mighty sneeze, which, in turn, causes him to twist the church spire.
Another day, the Devil is once again taking his rest on top of the church spire, during a journey from Nottingham to Sheffield. This time, deep in slumber, the Devil is shocked into wakefulness by the ringing of the church bells, causing him to twist the spire.
Another legend - albeit unverified- suggests that the Devil, in his rage, deliberately twisted the spire, when an actual virgin was finally married in the church; this would seem to suggest that this was an uncommon occurrence - again, no disrespect intended to the good people of Chesterfield.
THE DEVIL AT DEPEDALE Whilst not particularly associated with the quaint village of Dale Abbey, the Devil certainly had a hand in sculpting its rich history. As outlined in our page on Dale Abbey, the foundation of the Abbey at Dale was down to a hermit, who first settled in this place, after receiving a vision from the Virgin Mary. The Holy Virgin instructed a successful baker from Derby, named Cornelius, to cast off his worldly belongings and travel to Depedale (Dale Abbey), then just a wild and marshy land, there to spend his days in worship of her son. The baker did just that. Upon arrival he created a hermitage (which is still there), into the sandstone rock of the surrounding hill and set to worshipping the Lord. However, his good deeds did not go unnoticed by the Devil.
It is said that the Devil beset the baker with all kinds of privations he could throw at him. Ultimately and what nearly broke the hermit was the lack of fresh water to drink. However, with the help of the Lord, the hermit searched the valley and eventually found a hidden, freshwater spring and, it seems, the Devil finally fled, defeated by the hermit’s piety and tenacity. Like the hermitage, the well still remains. It would seem though that the Devil did return, some years later, only to find, in the words of local poets William and Mary Howitt:
The Devil one night, as he chanced to sail, In a stormy wind, by the abbey of Dale, Suddenly stopp’d, and look’d wild with surprise, That a structure so fair in that valley should rise, When last he was there it was lonely and still; And the hermitage scoop’d in the side of the hill, With its wretched old inmate his beads a-telling, Were all could be found of life, dweller and dwelling, The hermit was seen in the rock no more …
Peak Cavern. Matt Brown.
THE DEVIL’S ARSE, CASTLETON This title is, of course, metaphorical. In Castleton, one of Derbyshire’s most-visited towns, lies Peak Cavern. This is a giant gash in the hillside, below Peveril Castle and is very popular with visitors. Its association with the Devil derives from two main sources. Firstly, legend has it that the Devil was residing in Castleton, when he was disturbed by the religious chanting of a monk, all the way away at Lenton Priory, in Nottingham. The monk’s persistent chanting vexed the Devil so much that he gouged out a huge chunk of rock, from below Peveril Castle, thus creating Peak Cavern (see below) and flung it right across Derbyshire, and over the border to Nottinghamshire - 35 miles away. Unfortunately for the Devil and happily for the monk, the rock fell short and landed on a hillside. The rock is now known as the Hemlock Stone and stands in parkland on the edge of the village of Bramcote.
The second legend, which may follow on from the first, is what gives the cavern its rather crude name. Peak Cavern is very large and prone to flooding. On occasion, water backs up in the cavern and traps air behind it. When the air finally escapes through the water and out of the cavern, it makes a loud ‘farting’ type of sound, hence, the Devil’s Arse.
The Devil's Bolt Hole. Neil Theasby.
THE DEVIL’S BOLT HOLE Not far from Peak Cavern, in the hills between Castleton and the village of Peak Forest lies Eldon Hole, otherwise known as the Devil’s Bolt Hole. For many centuries, caves and caverns were seen as potential entrances to Hell, this probably deriving from older pagan beliefs in the Underworld. The Devil’s Bolt Hole is reputedly bottomless and, if not, it is certainly very deep indeed. In the 15th century, a man named Charles Cotton was lowered down into the hole, on a mile long rope. Apparently, he still never reached the bottom!
The Devil’s Bolt Hole has had a dark and fearsome reputation for many years. It is connected with the famous ghost story of the ‘Murder in Winnat’s Pass’, where it is said that the two victims’ bodies; Alan and Clara, were cast into this bottomless pit, to hide the evidence. In the 16th century, the then Earl of Leicester decided to conduct an experiment, by lowering a hapless local man into the pit. Like Charles Cotton before him, this man never reached the bottom, however, when he was finally hauled up, the man was unable to speak and had an expression of abject terror frozen into his face. He is reputed to have died, later that same day and the Earl deduced that, indeed, the Devil’s Bolt Hole must be a portal to Hell. A final tale is of two highwaymen, who cast a young man into the hole - one presumes one of their victims. As he plummeted to his inevitable death, the highwaymen reported that they could hear the roar of flames.
THE DEVIL’S SHOVELFUL, COXBENCH In an innocuous field, on the edge of the tiny hamlet of Coxbench, is a mound known as the Devil’s Shovelful. You can find a fuller explanation of the legend behind this on our Coxbench page. The origin of this mysterious mound is - unsurprisingly - down to the Devil. In short, one night the Devil was carrying a shovel full of earth, to dam up the Derwent and cause mayhem for the population of Derby. Along the way, the Devil came across a wily cobbler, carrying a sack of shoes. The Devil asked the cobbler how far the Derwent was - it was only over the next hill, in fact. The cobbler replied that it was many miles and he had still not found it himself, having worn out all the shoes in his sack in his search. The Devil decided that he couldn’t be bothered with that and duly dumped the shovel full of earth where he stood and, hence, the mound appeared.
Halter Devil Chapel. Rob Bradford
HALTER DEVIL CHAPEL, MUGGINTON Not far from Ashbourne is the pretty village of Mugginton. In it, you will find the lovely old church of All Saints, which is home to one of the three oldest yew trees in the county (see our page on the folklore of yews). Also in the village, is a tiny (17’ x 13’) chapel, fit only for around 30 people. The chapel was built in 1723 and is attached to a farmhouse. The man responsible for the chapel’s construction was one Francis Brown. Francis was a notorious character in his day; known for embezzling public money and for his heavy drinking.
The story goes that one turbulent, pitch black, stormy night, Francis found himself in need of coal. Apparently and as per usual, Francis was blind drunk. He went outside to put the halter on his horse, in order to ride to nearby Denby, to fetch coal. His horse’s nervousness, in response to the ongoing lightning and thunder, twinned with Francis’ drunken clumsiness, meant that he was unable to halter the horse. Legend has it that, in frustration, Francis swore the following “If I can’t halter thee, I’ll halter the Devil!” No sooner had he said this than an almighty crack of thunder sounded overhead and a flash of lightning lit up the field, showing a mighty horned figure standing there. Now, a rational person would, of course, assume this was a bull, but not Francis. Perhaps due to his heavily inebriated state, Francis was convinced it was the Devil himself and, from that day forth, Francis changed his ways; becoming a pious and sober man, and had the chapel built, in recompense for his previously sinful ways.
STORIES OF THE DEVIL IN DERBYSHIRE The Devil occurs in a couple of traditional folktales told in Derbyshire. The first is ‘The Blacksmith Who Sold Himself to the Devil’, from Calver. In this tale, a blacksmith finds himself lacking work, when the Devil appears to him, promising plenty of work and prosperity for the next seven years upon which time the Devil will return to take the blacksmith to hell. The blacksmith agreed and duly sold himself to the Devil. Sure enough, the blacksmith enjoyed great prosperity for the next seven years. However, when the Devil returned seven years later to claim him, the blacksmith refused to go with the Devil. The Devil then clicked his fingers and the blacksmith found himself back as poor and destitute as ever he was, when the Devil had first found him.
The second story, from Totley, is called ‘The Card Player and the Devil’. One day a gambler had been having a serious losing streak. In his frustration, he stole all the playing cards from his friends and pronounced that he would rather play against the Devil. On his way home, through dense woodland, a black horned figure, with cloven hoofs, arose before him and proclaimed “I am ready to play.” The gambler dropped to his knees and prayed to God, upon which the Devil disappeared.
DEVILISH BELIEFS Finally, there are a few gems of Derbyshire folklore that tell us something of how the Devil was regarded, in years gone by. For example, Do not pick over-ripe blackberries, as the Devil has ‘cast his club over them’. In northern Derbyshire, lists were kept of those believed to have sold themselves to the Devil. A woman from Eckington, was rumoured to be a witch. She stayed in bed until midday, every day, during which time she was said to hold communion with the Devil. As a result of this, she had the power to make people fulfil her every command. A man from Holmsfield, claimed to be able to raise the Devil with a frying pan and a set of keys. To prove it, he led a group of spectators to a nearby crossroads, where he began to rattle the keys against the frying pan and chanted:
I raised the Devil, and the Devil raised me, I never shall forget when the Devil raised me.
A great peel of thunder was said to sound and the Devil did appear; however, none of the spectators saw him, only the man, who immediately banished him, with a prayer.